Though small, Rwanda has much to offer the intrepid traveler. With some of the world’s best views, exhilarating animal encounters, and vibrant city life, Rwanda is quickly becoming one of the most exciting countries to visit in East Africa. Check out our ten reasons for why Rwanda should definitely be added to your travel bucket list.

1. This place is beautiful

Lush green hills, sweeping panoramic views, clean city streets, and colorful storefronts – Rwanda is truly a beautiful place. Spend just a few days or weeks visiting this stunning country, enjoying countless hikes, dips in volcanic lakes, and treks with majestic mountain gorillas.

2. It is incredibly easy to get around

Public transport around the country is fairly reasonable, safe, and easy to figure out. All buses leave from the Nyabugogo bus station in Kigali, and taxis and motorcycle taxis around the country are easy to come by. Plus, Rwanda is tiny! Unlike neighboring Tanzania, Uganda, and Democratic Republic of Congo, travelers can see most of Rwanda in a single visit.

3. All the primates, all the time

Of the 880 endangered mountain gorillas left in the world, approximately 400 of them are found in the Virunga volcanoes located in Rwanda, Uganda, and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Although seeing mountain gorillas in Rwanda has recently become incredibly expensive, it is super easy to do a quick overnight visit to Uganda or Congo for gorilla trekking. In addition to gorillas, Rwanda is also home to golden monkeys, chimpanzees, and several other primates.

4. Kigali is a city on the move

Though Kigali is not as loud or large as nearby Kampala, Nairobi, and Dar es Salaam, the city is slowly becoming one of East Africa’s best. It’s clean, safe, and the different neighborhoods all have their own unique identities. Check out bustling Kimironko, home to the city’s largest market, or grab some grilled brochettes in Nyamirambo, Kigali’s Muslim quarter. With art galleries, new restaurants, and hot bars sprinkled around the city, Kigali is not a spot to be missed.

5. Safari for a fraction of the usual cost

With lions and rhinos recently re-introduced to Akagera National Park, Rwanda once again has the safari big five. Visiting Akagera is much cheaper than touring any of the other national parks in the region, and the expansive savannah and sunrise views are breathtaking.

6. Luxury travel is on the rise

Bisate Lodge in Kinigi

If you’re in the mood to stay at a gorgeous lodge overlooking volcanoes and sparkling lakes or nestled in tea fields, Rwanda is the place to visit. Though luxury accommodation is fairly expensive, the lodges themselves are stunning, the food is delicious, and the service impeccable.

7. And yet, Rwanda is still affordable

View from Home St. Jean in Kibuye

Although the gorilla permits recently doubled in price and international luxury lodges are springing up around the country, do not be scared off by the price tag! There are plenty of Rwandan-run guesthouses, hotels, and restaurants that work for all budgets and are absolutely worthwhile to visit.

8. It’s not overrun yet

Kayaking in Gisenyi with Kingfisher Journeys

Unlike the hoards of tourists polluting Zanzibar’s pristine beaches, rafting the nile in Uganda, or going on safari in the Maasai Mara (all activities, by the way, that are still awesome), Rwanda is pretty untouched. Spend your days meeting people that actually live here, as opposed to hanging out with your hostel mates in Mombasa.

9. Walk through a rainforest canopy

Nyungwe National Park is an ancient rainforest located in southwestern Rwanda. Through excellent conservation initiatives, the biodiverse park is well-preserved and plays host to hundreds of birds, 13 primate species, countless hiking trails, and a walkway suspended over the vibrant rainforest canopy.

10. Everyone can visit!

In this tense global climate where fear about international travel and cooperation is at an all time high, Rwanda has gone above and beyond. As of January 1st, 2018, citizens of any country will be able to obtain a visa upon arrival in Rwanda. This is a landmark decision, and should only make it easier and less stressful to visit this gorgeous country.

So what do you think! Did we miss any fantastic reasons to visit Rwanda? Let us know in the comment section!

I’ve been on countless road trips throughout Rwanda – from the eastern provinces to Nyungwe National Park to the volcanoes of Musanze, and they’re all stunning. Rwanda, as we can agree, is a beautiful country. However, not to make this a competition or anything, but while Rwanda by land is wonderful, Rwanda by water is truly spectacular. I recently spent four days kayaking from Kibuye to Gisenyi with Kingfisher Journeys and loved it! Keep on reading below for all the down and dirty details on our itinerary, from the lack of showers (the best!) to the kayaking conditions to the transportation and accommodation specifics.

The Basics

This four day trip ranges in price (depending on if you’re a resident, student, volunteer, or regular tourist) from $180 to $300, and is very good value for an entire half a week on the water. Keep in mind that accommodation and food are not included after the first camping night. The price covers the kayaks, your camping equipment, water, and your fantastic guide. You have a few options where to stay along the way, and read on for your options!

Don’t expect luxury – you will be camping at least one night, and spending the rest of the nights in small guesthouses. Though you cannot shower at the camping island, depending on the accommodations you choose along the way you might be able to snag a shower during the week (don’t expect hot water, however). The food options are good and taste amazing after a day on the water, but you’re not going to be eating the most gourmet meals of your life.

You don’t have to be in great shape to do this trip (ahem, looking at myself here), but you have to be at least moderately fit and ought to have kayaked a few times previously. You will really only be kayaking up to 4 or 5 hours a day depending on the fitness levels of your group, but we took tons of breaks and lazed about checking out the beautiful scenery all the time. Don’t be nervous! The Kingfisher team is awesome and will absolutely be looking out for you before, after, and during your trip.

What to Bring

So this is a kayaking trip and you’re going to spending most of your days on the water. You’re going to get pretty wet, and the clothes you bring should reflect that. Quick dry items are preferable, and I ended up wearing the same quick dry leggings and tank top for several days (yes, I’m gross). You can rent camping equipment (sleeping bag, tent, and sleeping pad) from Kingfisher, or you could bring your own like we did. A couple of other things to make sure are on your list:

• Sunscreen (bring SO much of this – it’s hot out there)
• A change of clothes for when you finish kayaking for the day that are dry.
• Hammocks (who doesn’t love a good hammock), playing cards, books, and other things to entertain yourself for the non-kayaking portion of your days.
• A sweater or fleece for when the nights get chilly.
• Cameras! Gotta document those amazing landscapes!
• Kingfisher provides drybags (to seal up valuables), but if you have more feel free to bring those too.
• SNACKS! We had lots of nuts, dried fruit, chocolate, and other goodies with us, and that was so helpful.

Getting to Kibuye and where to stay:

Though our kayaking journey started on a Wednesday, Jenny and I were asked to get to Kibuye on Tuesday to make sure everything was sorted and ready to go for our 8am departure the next day. That Tuesday afternoon we met up with Francis, our awesome Kingfisher guide, to make sure all our gear fit into the kayaks and chat about the schedule for the coming days.

We also arrived early in an attempt to transfer some luggage from Kibuye to Gisenyi that we did not want to take on the kayaks. Kingfisher had offered to help us out, and had asked the boat driver who had transferred the Kingfisher kayaks to Kibuye from Gisenyi to transfer our items back to Gisenyi. This proved to be pretty confusing, and I would probably recommend not trying to do this in the future because of the uncertainty. Regardless, with the help of Francis, we were able to pay the boat driver Rwf 10,000 to transfer our belongings as he was already going to be making his way back to Gisenyi.

To get to Kibuye from Kigali, you can either self-drive or take a three hour long bus ride from Nyabugogo. I usually use the Capital bus company, where tickets are Rwf 2,500 per person and the drivers are not outrageously fast.

Once in Kibuye, we spent the night at one of my favorite spots in town, Home Saint Jean. Ah, Home Saint Jean… home to cheap rooms (doubles start at Rwf 18,000 for the whole room, and dorms at Rwf 8,000 per person), great views, and cold beer (Rwf 1,400 for a large Skol Lager). The view from the restaurant is special. Just really really special. Trust me, if you’re on a budget this is definitely the place to be. Service, while sometimes slow, is generally pretty good. Though the menu has some hit and misses, the grilled half chicken with chips (Rwf 6,000) is big enough for two and is easily one of my favorite meals along Lake Kivu. After dinner, we went to bed quite early to be all ready for the adventures to come. Get at us, Lake Kivu!

Day One

We started our journey at the Bethany hotel at 7:30am. After packing up the kayaks, our little group of five (Francis, Jenny, a couple, and myself) hit the water. Though the water was very calm in the beginning, about an hour into our trip the wind started tossing our little kayaks around. Jenny and I have kayaked quite a bit before, so were fine when it got a little choppy, but the two other people in our group were not the happiest. So here is Pro tip #1: do not come on this trip unless you want to kayak for 4 days and feel comfortable on the water! The other couple ended up leaving the trip permanently by midday, which was a bummer. Yikes. We had a blast though! And after they were picked up by a boat to take them directly to Gisenyi, we kayaked the islands of Kibuye (and even saw the famous swimming cows). After a few hours, we made our way to our lovely uninhabited island to set up camp for the night.

The island is beautiful, with stunning views out onto the lake for sunset and perfectly placed trees from which to hang hammocks. Pro tip #2: bring a hammock! Additionally, as I realized while unpacking gear for the night, make sure that you keep everything you store in the kayaks in dry bags. While the spots where you store items in the kayak shouldn’t theoretically get wet, I learned my lesson after spending the first night on a slightly damp sleeping mat and bag that I hadn’t protected well enough. So pro tip #3: use those dry bags, friends!

Dinner that night was delicious, and we cooked potatoes, eggs, and vegetables with Francis. Though fish is a possibility at the island, it’s not a guarantee if the water that day was a little rough and fishermen did not venture out. As a result, I would recommend asking Francis or whoever your guide is to make sure you have eggs or some other protein in addition to your vegetables – you’re getting a work out, and (pro tip #4) need that protein!

After a filling meal and a somewhat intense day on the water (those waves are no joke!), we fell asleep around 8:00pm with plans to wake up early the next morning.

Day Two

This was likely our favorite kayaking day of the trip because dang – Lake Kivu is stunning. Especially early in the morning. The views are beautiful, the water was calm, and the blue and green hills in the background were mesmerizing. As we had learned the day before, June and July are (apparently) windy season on the lake. Francis recommended we leave the campsite on the earlier side around 7:00 or 7:30am, and after doing that for the rest of the week, we had very few issues with wind. In fact, the lake was positively serene and the reflections on the water were unbelievable.

We started off our morning from the island watching as several fishing boats came into the nearby town. I had seen these boats in the distance in the past, but this was the closest I had seen them in person – and they’re the coolest!

Though you’re generally kayaking only about ten kilometers a day, on Day 2 from Kibuye you can do an additional six kilometer kayak around Bugarura island if you want. This island is the biggest one on Lake Kivu, and the kayak around the island is pretty scenic (although long).

After a couple good hours on the lake, we arrived at Kinunu. There are two options for sleeping arrangements on Day 2, and you can choose between the budget Kinunu Guesthouse or the Rushel Kivu Lodge. The Kinunu Guesthouse is a nice, cheaper option (and is where we stayed). Camping in their yard runs Rwf 10,000 per tent, and doubles are Rwf 25,000 (this option includes breakfast). You can order a buffet dinner at Kinunu Guesthouse for Rwf 5,000 per person, and they have cold sodas and beer on sale as well.

Alternatively, the Rushel Kivu Lodge is a bit more expensive. Though camping with your own tent is the same price as at Kinunu (Rwf 10,000 per tent), the next cheapest option for a double (either in their glamping tents or the actual rooms) is Rwf 35,000 for two people. That being said, the food is quite good (with fish, chicken, beef brochettes running between Rwf 1,000 and 1,500), and you can order off a menu as opposed to doing a buffet. We came here for lunch after finishing kayaking for the day, and had a really enjoyable time hanging out and enjoying the view at the lodge.

In retrospect, I probably would have stayed at Rushel Kivu Lodge and camped with the tent we brought due to the good food options, nice beach, and beautiful view. Additionally, with Rushel Kivu Lodge you just kayak up the shore onto the beach, whereas with Kinunu Guesthouse you have to hike up a little bit and Francis enlists some folks to help carry the kayaks. However, if you’d really rather stay in a room and not a tent, are strapped for cash, and don’t care about the view or the food, Kinunu Guesthouse is probably the way to go.

Day Three

This was another beautiful kayaking day, but it is also your hump day. By that I mean, if you’re like me and rarely work out, your body is going to be feeling it. My arms felt like noodles. Oops. Might be time to start hitting the gym. Francis, however, was a champ and kept motivating us, specifically by feeding us bananas every few kilometers. It was delightful.

Though Francis provided the bananas for the day, Jenny and I provided the entertainment. This leads me to Pro tip #5: go with people you want to hang out with! We spent our time singing absurd camp songs I learned in the middle of Maine, playing cards, reading Harry Potter to each other, and just generally talking nonsense. It was great. Get a good fun group together, and you’ll have an awesome time regardless of the conditions.

Our 10 kilometer paddle for the day was fairly uneventful – albeit beautiful, and we had the chance to really see a lot of bird life. Watching cormorants dip in and out of the water looking for fish is really cool, while taking our time kayaking towards Gisenyi was truly enjoyable.

After getting to the guesthouse in Cymbili, we set up the hammock, hung out, called our families, and just generally relaxed. This guesthouse is probably my favorite place we stayed at, though the island camping is also great. It is Rwf 15,000 for a double room or Rwf 5,000 per person if you’re camping, so we snagged a double room as the prices were so similar. It was Rwf 5,000 per person for a simple buffet dinner, and the staff there were really kind, thoughtful, and relaxed. In fact the whole place was relaxed, and the sunset views were wonderful. When the afternoon wind died down a little bit, Francis set up a little fire and we roasted some marshmallows to make s’mores as a little pre-dinner snack. Pro tip #6: bring marshmallows!

The guesthouse sits on a nice sandy beach, so if it’s not too windy you can enjoy a nice beach day post-kayaking. The beach is also fantastic because you literally can paddle onto shore and be just a few meters away from the guesthouse. And trust me – by day three you’re going to appreciate that.

Day Four

Ah, day 4. Our last day! I still can’t believe our trip was over so quickly. We woke up in the morning morning at 5:30am to the chorus of songs from the nearby boarding school. As delightful as that sentence sounds theoretically, it made me want to jump into the lake. So! Keep that in mind – if you’re here on a weekend, you’ll likely be woken up. About an hour later, we rolled out of bed and got ready to kayak the last leg of this journey to Gisenyi.

Though the first hour or so of the day was the usual blue waters of Kivu, right before we made it to Gisenyi we passed a lot of trash in the water that Francis explained was floating from the Congo side of Lake Kivu. We were all pretty shocked to see the mass amounts of trash, especially as a toilet-seat floated right by (you just can’t make this stuff up). Whoops. Anyways, we weren’t sure if it was a shift in the wind or a week of a lot of garbage, but it was pretty wild. Other than that, it was another stunning day on the water! Kayaking into Gisenyi, with views of Goma fairly clear, was a great end to a great trip.

We landed at Paradise Malahide around 11am (since we are obviously expert kayakers at this point) ready to shower, but definitely bummed to leave our little kayaks and wonderful Francis behind!  The paddle to Gisenyi feels a little long, perhaps longer than 10 kilometers, but that could also be because our arms felt like overcooked spaghetti at this point. A Fanta citron and a cold Skol later (in addition to gallons of water – stay hydrated, kids!) we were already reminiscing about our time on Lake Kivu and with Kingfisher.

Final Thoughts

I would absolutely do this again! Or perhaps attempt the Kibuye to Cyangugu trip and truly finish up the Congo Nile Trail by water. I’ve spent a good few years going on hikes and different trips around Rwanda, and our time with Kingfisher Journey was definitely unique. Whether you live here or are a tourist, this trip is a lovely way to see the country from a new perspective. Thanks for an awesome time, Kingfisher Journeys! Any questions about our trip? Want to go soon? Let us know in the comments!

To book or for more information, check the Kingfisher Journeys website, Facebook page, email them at info@kingfisherjourneys.com, or call +250 (0)783 811 918 in Rwanda or you can reach them in the UK at +44 (0)33 0001 0610.

Though there are many getaway options for a weekend trip from Kigali, visiting the twin lakes in the Musanze region is always at the top of my list. There are several places to stay on Lake Burera and Lake Ruhondo (including the beautiful albeit expensive Virunga Lodge in between the lakes, Foyer de Charitie overlooking Lake Ruhondo, and Ruhondo Beach Resort). However, my undoubtable favorite has to be camping on Ile de Cyuza in the middle of Lake Burera.

La Paillotte Gorilla Place in Musanze town, in addition to running a bakery, restaurant, and several guesthouses, also owns Ile de Cyuza (Cyuza’s Island) on Lake Burera. The island covers 14 hectares, and though parts of it are cultivated, a lot of the island is still in a natural state. Vegetable patches and fruit trees, however, abound! The island is also a community-run initiative, benefiting the surrounding town with the proceeds from your stay and the produce from the island.

Getting to Ile de Cyuza

After making your reservation (email lapaillottegorillaplace@hotmail.com and call 0785 523 561 or 0722 322 066), it’s time to head to Musanze! If you’re driving (lucky you), just head northwest as if you were heading to Gisenyi (google maps has all the information). If you’re taking public transit, hop on a two hour bus from Nyabugogo Bus Station for Rwf 1,200 from Virunga Express. Upon arrival in Musanze, head to the La Paillote restaurant to meet the owner of Cyuza’s Island or one of her staff members.

Once you meet them at the restaurant, you can confirm your booking in person and be on your way! If you are driving, they will give you instructions to head to the spot on the lake where you can park your car and then boat across. If you’re taking public transport (as we did), you will walk to the Musanze bus station and take a bus to Rugarama (about 30 minutes of driving). Don’t forget to tell the driver you need to get off at Rugarama, as it is not a specific or official bus stop. The bus tickets are Rwf 500 each way.

When you arrive, you will be met by the manager of the island. The bus stop is about four kilometers from the shore of Lake Burera, and you can either walk or hire a moto for about Rwf 1,000. Be warned: this will be the bumpiest moto ride of your life. Upon getting to the shore of the lake, you’ll hop into a small boat and start paddling to the island. This takes about twenty minutes, and you might have to bail out the boat every once in a while along the way. However, it is beautiful. Like really really beautiful. Like maybe we should all move to this island kind of beautiful.

At Cyuza’s Island on Lake Burera

Upon arrival at Cyuza’s Island, you will take a short (and uphill) five minute walk to the eating area, which is really just a cement and wood open-air room with a thatched roof. It has a beautiful view of the lake, and looks out over the Muhabura volcano. Regarding sleeping arrangements, the camping area is great (and a short walk from the main eating area). It is Rwf 10,000 per person to camp, and they provide the tent, mattress, and pillows if you don’t come with your own. Do, however, bring a sleeping bag or sheets.

Since it’s Musanze, it can get pretty chilly at night, so don’t forget the cozy blankets and sweaters! Something to keep in mind: this is not a ‘luxurious’ experience – there aren’t showers, the bathroom is a (well-maintained) compost toilet, and I would advise bringing (and cooking) your own food. However – this place is lovely, good value, and a unique way to spend a weekend in Rwanda! Our view from our tent, as pictured above, is still one of the best views I’ve ever had.

Food, Drinks, and Activities

We brought our own food and drinks, but it is possible to order food from La Paillotte and have it delivered. They also have coffee and tea available in the eating area. Bring snacks and alcohol if you’re so inclined, as a glass of wine and chocolate at night tastes even better (is that possible?!) under the stars and in the foothills of volcanoes. Though we spent our time on the island relaxing, reading, and swimming, the island can also help arrange a boat ride and other activities in the area. If you’re looking for more to do during your time in Musanze, check out Kingfisher Journeys for canoeing near the gorillas, head to Virunga Lodge for a beer and a great view, hike around the twin lakes, or hike Bisoke volcano (or any of the other amazing volcanos in the area).

In love with this Cyuza’s Island yet? Checking your calendar for upcoming free weekends? That’s probably a good call – this island is the best!

As a Canadian I grew up with a canoe in the backyard (a little stereotype for you) and we’d often take it out on the waterways around Lake Ontario. It was old and huge and getting in and out was slightly terrifying but I have lots of great memories of floating peacefully in our trusty canoe. So I was pretty excited when Kingfisher Journeys imported four canoes to start running trips near Musanze.

Kingfisher Journeys is one of Rwanda’s most innovative and exciting tour companies, introducing kayaking and canoeing trips to some of the country’s beautiful waterways. They opened their ‘doors’ back in November 2015 with kayaking trips on Lake Kivu and, as of June 2016 have expanded to canoeing trips on the Mukungwa River near Musanze. I love businesses that try something totally new and push the tourist industry forward with a completely new activity and Kingfisher Journeys are a great business offering exciting trips that add to the list of things to do in Rwanda. They’re even working on an epic 11 day kayaking trip that will run the length of Lake Kivu!

But back to canoeing… we decided to drive up to Musanze in the morning, do the afternoon canoe trip, and then we stayed at the Ruhondo Beach Resort which is a beautiful place but it’s about 30 minutes outside of Musanze plus another 20 minute boat ride so if you’re pressed for time you might want to stay somewhere in Musanze itself. If you’re looking for a relaxing escape from Kigali, a canoe trip plus an overnight in Musanze is a perfect little getaway. The drive isn’t too long, the trip is about as zen as it gets, and there are some great options for a nice night in Musanze in the shadow of the volcanoes.

Our afternoon canoe trip started with a 2pm pickup at Hotel Muhabura which is right on Musanze’s main road. If you arrive early enough this place looks like a nice spot for lunch. We were met by our guide Sandrine and then driven about 20 minutes to the river to start our trip. After some short instruction on paddling techniques and some safety info, we clamored down the bank of the river (not a difficult descent but Kingfisher Journeys are planning to add stairs soon) into our canoes. We were two to a canoe with Sandrine paddling alongside us in her own boat.

The canoeing itself takes around three hours so make sure to come prepared with a full belly and some sunscreen. The section of river they’ve chosen is flat and meandering. It’s very relaxed with a couple of small sections of white water excitement built in. Mostly you’ll be paddling gently and taking in the beautiful surroundings. It’s great to drift by as people go about their day-to-day activities beyond the sugar cane, bamboo, and other crops. Canoeing down the river is a wonderful way to see the area at water level and we saw lots of birds up close (36 different bird species have been counted so far) and I hear that there are also otters though were weren’t lucky enough to see them on our trip. You’ll be happy to hear there there are no crocs or hippos in this area.

Sandrine is a great lover of the outdoors and she’ll answer all of your questions about the area. She’s got such an interesting story involving taking a training programme in Australia for outdoor activities and guiding and it’s really great that she and Kingfisher Journeys have found each other as she’s the perfect person to lead these trips. She’ll snap photos along the way so you can leave your camera at home if you don’t want to risk it getting wet. Dry bags are provided though and it was easy to pull our phones or cameras out along the trip. The afternoon light was stunning on the day we went and we got some very nice shots, especially when the volcanoes loomed in the background.

Canoeing is leisurely enough not to tire you out too much and no experience is required so it would make a great addition to gorilla trekking or a hiking trip in the Musanze area. If you’ll be in Musanze for a trek, I’d recommend booking a canoeing trip for the afternoon the day before. Leave for Musanze in the morning, grab lunch, and then hop onto an afternoon trip that runs from around 2 to 5pm. The paddling is nice and relaxing and your body won’t hate you the next day so you’ll be ready to chase some gorillas!

We did the trip as the main attraction and it’s totally worth the journey up to Musanze. If you’re planning a weekend in Gisenyi you could even stop in Musanze on the way for a bit of paddling fun, and then continue the at 1.5 hours to Gisenyi afterward. Since Musanze is only about 2 hours from Kigali, canoeing could also be done as a day trip. Restaurants in Musanze can take awhile for food so consider grabbing a packed lunch from Turambe Shoppe to take with you to eat before you go canoeing or stop at Sina Gerard (the rest stop about 45 minutes outside of Kigali) for brochettes and potatoes on the way up.

At $35 , the canoeing trip already starts out as a very affordable half day outing but Kingfisher Journeys also offer generous discounts for students, East African citizens and residents, groups (for five or more people), and guests at a selection of hotels. Check out their discounts page for all of the details. Another nice touch is that any discount applies to the entire booking, even if only one person applies.

I love being on the water and Kingfisher Journeys really have added something special to everyone living or passing through Rwanda. I haven’t tried kayaking yet but I’m looking forward to giving it a go and the next time I’m in Gisenyi, they also have paddle boards. Check out their video for a sneak peek of what’s in store and if you want to book, all of the details are below. Canoeing is number two on Trip Advisor for things to do in Musanze (behind those sexy gorillas) and I can totally recommend it too!

Phone: 0783 811 918
Website: http://www.kingfisherjourneys.com
Email: info@kingfisherjourneys.com

Akagera National Park is one of Rwanda’s most popular tourist attractions and it keeps getting better and better each year. It’s been under the combined management of RDB and African Parks (a conservation non-profit based in South Africa) since 2010. In that time, over $12 million has been spent on conservation, park enforcement, tourism initiatives, and community engagement. It’s this exciting partnership that has brought lions to the park and park attendance has jumped from 15,000 people in 2010 to 32,000 people in 2015.

Though Akagera isn’t as well known as other major parks in the region, it’s stunningly beautiful and really does make a great day, overnight, or weekend trip. The park is large and the landscape changes quite drastically from north to south. The rolling hills offer amazing views from the top and a very nice backdrop if you’re in the valleys. Akagera National Park is on the border of Tanzania at a relatively low altitude and is creatively carved with a labyrinth of swamps that flow into the Akagera River.

Akagera Park is located to the Eastern province of Rwanda about two hours away form Kigali. The road is mostly paved until about a half hour before you get to the entrance when things get a bit bumpy and dusty… to get you ready for the park experience! Akagera is home to lots of animals including elephants, buffalo, giraffe and zebras, 11 antelope species, and elusive lions and leopards. If you’ve been on game drives in places like Kenya or South Africa then you might find Rwanda’s little park less exciting as the animals aren’t quite as plentiful as they are in the Serengeti’s of the world. But a trip to Akagera is still highly recommended and it makes for a great day or overnight trip away from Kigali.

Activities

I didn’t realise how many activities were possible in Akagera until very recently but there are quite a few things to keep you busy. At the time of writing this article, park entry costs $35 for international visitors, $25 for East African residents (bring your passport or ID card as proof), and $6 for East African citizens (children over 6 get in for cheaper and kids under five are free). I’ve listed prices below and they’re correct at the time of publishing but things change so make sure to email akagera@african-parks.org for a current list of prices for each activity. Activities are organised by the park and need to be booked and paid for at the reception area close to the southern

• Game Drives – The obvious attraction to a game park is a game drive! You can come in as part of a fully organised tour with a driver and guide or you can get a bit more adventurous and drive yourself in your own vehicle ($7 for EAC/Rwandan registered cars and $25 for foreign registered cars and double for safari vehicles or buses). Driving yourself is fun but you won’t really know where to look for the animals which might be frustrating. Fortunately you can hire a guide to come with you for $25 for a half day or $40 for a full day… just make sure to leave an extra seat in the car! Night game drives for $40 per person (minimum 2, maximum 7 people) are also a possibility and this can be arranged separately from within the park.
• Bird Watching – Akagera is a great spot for bird watching nerds with about 525 Species of birds (four of which are endemic) as well as a large number of migrant birds. The elusive Shoebill Stork can be spotted here along with the endangered and exquisite Papyrus Gonolek.
• Boat Trips – There are three pre-scheduled boat trips (morning, day, or sunset) to enjoy the park from water level surrounded by crocodile, bird, and hippo friends. The one hour trip costs $40 per person (to a maximum of 11 people) or if you’d rather schedule your own trip with a private group at your chosen time it costs $180 to rent the entire boat.
• Fishing – If you have your own gear (rods only, no nets) you can pay a fee of $20 for a permit to fish for the day from the shores of Lake Shakani. Hippos stay in the water during the day and the banks of the shore are gently sloped so you’d see any approaching crocs well before they were consuming you, so there’s nothing to worry about. But it certainly adds an element of excitement to fishing!
• Cultural Tours – In collaboration between the park and local communities, freelance community guides have arranged for some interesting tours and cultural experiences for park guests to participate in. There are four choices – Heritage (The Culture of Cattle), Local Production (Beer and Bees), Arts and Crafts, and Celebration (Food and Festivities). Each of these tours offers a glimpse into life in communities around the park. Try your hand at everything from milking a cow to making an imigongo painting, to sampling honey on the comb, to helping to create a local meal, to having a go at traditional Rwandan dancing. Each cultural experience tour takes around three hours and costs $20 per person with a minimum of three people.
• Walk the Line – This tour is an interesting opportunity to see a portion of the park on foot. Join community freelance guides as they guide you in the shoes of a fence attendant to check the fence that allowed the reintroduction of lions into the park. The moderate walk is 7kms long, takes about 2 hours, and ends on a ridge with a beautiful view over the park. It costs $0 per person with a minimum of three.

Biting Flies

Be aware that there are evil flies (maybe horseflies) that will visit you at certain points in the park and bite the living crap out of you. They take out actual chunks of skin and make you bleed. They suck. A lot. Most people don’t know about these hell-flies before they go to the park so I’m here to tell you about them! They’re not everywhere but you’ll know when you’re driving through a zone. One person will get bitten and everyone will frantically roll up their windows but it will be too late and you’ll have a few hell-flies trapped in there with you, biting and being annoying. Your driver will swerve dangerously as he swats at them and everyone else will have a brief screaming session as the car turns into temporary chaos. To minimise the effect of these horrible creatures, wear light coloured clothing, long pants, and have a long-sleeved shirt handy. Apparently they’re drawn to dark blue and purple so avoid those colours. Bug spray doesn’t work on these demons. They suck but they’re temporary visitors so they’ll soon be gone as you drive on.

Accommodation

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  Camping – Sleeping in the park with nothing between you and the animals but a thin sheet of nylon is an exhilarating experience and something fairly unique to Akagera Park. But beware of roving gangs of baboons! They’re cheeky and will do their best to steal your food and terrorize you just because they’re jerks and have weird bums. But spending the night around the campfire with a group of friends, some beers and the wide open sky makes for a great break from city life and is one of the best overnight or weekend trips you can do in Rwanda. There are three campsites with the one in the north at Mutumba known as being the most beautiful (but also the farthest away). Camping costs $20 per person per night and the park can rent you a 6 person tent for an extra $20 per night (for the two southern campsites only). They don’t have any other gear though so make sure to bring your own. Both campsites are equipped with a BBQ and firewood is provided plus there are pit latrines and a small shelter. The views at both campsites are great, it’s peaceful and, lets face it, camping in a game park with wild animals roaming in the bush is pretty damned cool.

• Akagera Game Lodge – If roughing it while evading baboons isn’t really your thing then you might prefer to stay at the Akagera Game Lodge. As we only stopped there for lunch I didn’t get a look at the rooms, but the pool area was nice and the lodge seemed to be a pretty good option, if a little outdated. Nothing too flashy and fairly simple… but good enough, I thought. A single room in the in the lodge costs $100 and doubles go for $120. They’ve got the pool, tennis courts, business facilities and offer a variety of wildlife activities including fishing, game drives and bird watching trips. The lodge isn’t far from the main entrance to the park.
• Ruzizi Tented Lodge – For a more upscale experience, try the Ruzizi Tented Lodge, the park’s nicest accommodation. As the name suggests, you sleep in safari tents but they’re very glamorous and located in a beautiful setting right on one of the park’s lakes. The tents sleep 2 people and cost $165 per person for international visitors and $130 for residents. This includes breakfast and dinner and means that the Ruzizi Lodge is much better value for money and the Akagera Game Lodge. Prices are due to increase in 2017 when they start to offer full board so make sure to double check prices with them at akagera@african-parks.org before booking. There are only nine tents so it books up quickly on weekends. The food gets great reviews and people rave about their showers! I’ll give it a try soon and report back.
• Karenge Bush Camp – I’ve heard wonderful things about this popup style tented camp that’s only open from June 1st to August 31st and mid-December to the end of February each year. The camp costs $150 per person (again, confirm prices before booking) for full board. The camp is more rustic than Ruzizi Tented Lodge but the experience is luxurious and they take very good care of their guests with proper beds, cold drinks, three-course meals, and a spectacular setting. The camp is low impact with no cement being used and the whole thing is packed away each time leaving zero trace behind. This is another example of a great new initiative in the park and I’m looking forward to giving it a try!

Transportation to Akagera Park

You could probably hitch your way to the entrance of the park. Or take a bus to Kayonza District before hopping on a moto for a crazy, dusty ride… but it wouldn’t make much sense since you’ll need a vehicle once you actually get to the park. A game drive on a moto, while it would be an interesting experience and a hell of a story, probably isn’t the best of ideas and isn’t allowed anyway. But if making your own way to the park is how you choose to roll, Akagera has safari cars ready for you to hire on arrival for $175 for a half day and $275 for a full day which probably only makes sense if you have close to the maximum 7 passengers allowed.

Or you could be a bit more ‘normal’ and hire a vehicle in Kigali for the trip. You can drive yourself through the park (if you want to pick up a guide at the information centre to lead you around and spot for animals make sure to leave space for him) or you can hire a driver in Kigali to arrange the entire trip and to act as a guide. Cars for self-drive can often be hired for as little as $50 per day and, while any type of car should be able to make its way through a dry park, a 4×4 is recommended.

If you’d prefer to leave the driving to a professional, hiring a car and a driver is also a possibility. I would recommend contacting Janvier at A Step Into Nature Tours or Emile from Lion Safaris. They both have a lot of experience running trips to the park and are all around nice guys whose guides speak English, French, and Kinyarwanda. For all tour companies, prices will vary depending on the type of car you want You can contact Janvier at info@astepintonature.com or Emile at info@lionsafaris.rw.

A Step Into Nature Tours also runs fairly regular shared trips to the park for around $150 per person. This is the sort of trip that exists in most countries with a developed tourist industry where you pay your fee and share the trip with some strangers/new friends and Janvier is the only company doing this sort of thing regularly. The costs is the same regardless of how full the car is and it’s a really great way to see the park on a day trip with zero hassles. Check the A Step Into Nature Tours Facebook page occasionally as he posts about upcoming trips there.

Summary

Akagera Park is close to Kigali and it makes a wonderful weekend escape or even just a quick day trip. The park is beautiful and there’s lots to see and do there at affordable prices. It’s great to see how far the park has come in the six years I’ve lived here and the dedication that Rwanda has to investing in its national parks and I love that my trips to Akagera support their great initiatives.

Check out the links below if you have any questions!

Phone: 0782 166 015 / 0786 182 871
Email: akagera@african-parks.org
Website: https://www.african-parks.org/the-parks/akagera
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/AkageraNP