Gorilla trekking is one of the most magical wildlife encounters in the world. When I went for the first time in Rwanda, I was in awe. To be so close to these human-like creatures, to see them in their natural habitat – it’s inspiring, uplifting, and all around just the coolest.

Unfortunately, with gorilla trekking permits in Rwanda almost impossible to obtain (unless you have $1,500 U.S.D. that is), tourists in the region are now looking for alternative options. If you’re a tourist on a budget, rest assured – mountain gorillas are not only found in Rwanda. The Virunga Mountains, where 50% of the world’s remaining mountain gorillas are located, actually span Rwanda, the Democratic Republic of Congo, and Uganda. Gorilla trekking is also available in the Democratic Republic of Congo and Uganda, and though trekking there requires a border crossing, it’s worth it for the low price.

As of December, 2017, the prices for gorilla trekking in the region are as follows: permits in Rwanda cost $1,500, $600 for Uganda ($450 for rainy season in April, May, and November), and $400 for Congo (with rainy season prices ranging from $250 to $350).

Gorilla Trekking in Uganda – Courtesy of Leah Feiger

Uganda shares a small part of the Virunga Mountains range, offering Gorilla trekking in the Mgahinga Gorilla National Park near Kisoro, Uganda. In addition to Mgahinga, gorilla trekking is also available just a few hours away in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park (where the other 50% of mountain gorillas in the world reside).

I was recently lucky enough to spend a weekend with Janvier from A Step Into Nature for an unforgettable trekking experience in Uganda. Janvier, in response to Rwanda’s higher prices, has put together a fantastic itinerary for gorilla trekking in Uganda, with the company organizing the necessary permits, accommodation, and transportation. All you really need to do is lace up your hiking boots and get ready to hit the trails.

We left at around 10am on a Saturday morning, driving directly to the Cyanika border. A Step Into Nature provides the option of stopping in Musanze for month, but we decided to head straight for the border in order to hopefully nab some tasty rolexes for the road (Ugandan chapati with a fried egg rolled inside of it). The Cyanika border is relatively easy (and much less crowded than the Gatuna Border). Once we crossed, we were just a few hours drive from the Bwindi Jungle Lodge, our accommodation for the evening. Including the border crossing, it took about five hours to drive from Kigali to our stop for the night.

Bwindi Jungle Lodge is an enjoyable and picturesque hotel set on a small lake halfway between Mgahinga National Park and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. All the rooms have their own private porches with absolutely stunning views of the lake. Definitely spend the day prior to gorilla trekking lounging on your porch, with a cold beer and a good book.

The food is all inclusive, and actually pretty impressive. We had some issues with stale bread (and were assured that was because it was low season), but everything else was fresh and tasty. We enjoyed different kinds of curries with homemade chapati, as well as warming soups and an excellent fish and chips dish. Meals are served in the cozy dining area, next to a stocked bar and overlooking the lake. The area surrounding the lodge is pretty quiet, and going to bed early after a quick glimpse at the bright stars is very relaxing. The beds are comfortable, the bathrooms clean, the water hot, and the service generally very good. Bwindi Jungle Lodge is undoubtedly a great place to stay prior to gorilla trekking.

Though Janvier prefers to take his clients to the Bwindi Jungle Lodge, it’s definitely possible to request a cheaper or more upscale option. Additionally, it’s important to note that if guests choose to hike in Mgahinga (as opposed to Bwindi), the trip back to Rwanda will be much shorter. We hiked in Bwindi, and had to wake up at 5:30am for the hour and a half drive to the forest entrance. The drive to Mgahinga is only half an hour away, and actually back towards Rwanda (making your return all the easier). However, it was pretty nice to be able to stop back at the hotel after gorilla trekking in Bwindi with the chance for a hot lunch and quick wash. Additionally, the sunrise on the road to Bwindi is beautiful, and the drive really easy.

We chose Bwindi instead of Mgahinga due to the fact that Bwindi has many habituated gorilla families, whereas Mgahinga only has one. That could mean your hike in Mgahinga could take upwards of seven hours, or just thirty minutes. If you have any doubts about your physically fitness and want to request an easy or mid-range trail, definitely check out Bwindi. If you don’t mind and would rather stay in the Virunga range, stay with Mgahinga. We had a great time in Bwindi, and have also heard of people having a lovely time in Mgahinga. The choice is yours, and A Step Into Nature is super flexible.

Gorilla Trekking in Uganda – Courtesy of Leah Feiger

In terms of the actual gorilla trekking, the experience in Uganda is pretty similar to Rwanda. There are, however, a few marked differences. There is much less pomp and circumstance at the Uganda gorilla trekking headquarters, and the classic Rwandan free tea, coffee, and bananas are not served prior to trekking alongside traditional dancing performances. Porters are still available, just like in Rwanda, and It is $15 U.S.D. to hire one for the day.

The two main differences we spotted, however, between Rwanda and Uganda gorilla trekking, is the fact that 1) the short hikes aren’t actually that short and 2) there are a lot of trails. For anyone that has gone gorilla trekking in Rwanda before, you’ll be very familiar with the memory of park rangers hacking branches in front of you and creating a path in the moment. That’s not the case in Uganda, until the very end of the trek. We walked along well-trodden trails, marveling at the difference. And, in terms of requesting ‘short hikes,’ the Ugandan park service is unfortunately not as proficient as the Rwandan one. We requested a moderately short hike, and were assigned to a gorilla family that usually stays pretty low on the mountain. In Rwanda, a moderate hike is generally a no more few hours roundtrip, whereas ours was 4 hours. This wasn’t the case with all the groups searching for gorillas that day, and obviously these are wild creatures, but the Rwandan park service does seem more proficient in that respect. Other than that though, the experience itself is obviously incredible. To spend a full hour watching these majestic animals interact with one another is truly special, and I cannot recommend it enough.

Gorilla Trekking in Uganda – Courtesy of Leah Feiger

A Step into Nature did a great job of organizing the entire trip, and we felt very comfortable and taken care of. In addition to their Ugandan tours (that also include visits to Queen Elizabeth National Park and other hikes in the area), Janiver and his team still organize gorilla trekking in Rwanda, as well as safaris around Akagera National Park and visits throughout the country. A twenty four hour gorilla trekking experience in Uganda, with all our meals, transport, permits, and accommodation included, is priced at for $1500 U.S.D. for one person and $2,000 USD for two people. If you’re interested in exploring Uganda or further, and want to do it with a guide, definitely check out A Step Into Nature.

Note: I was given a free gorilla trekking tour with A Step Into Nature in Uganda for this write-up, but all opinions shared in this article are my own.

August in Kigali is quiet. Like you can hear a pencil drop quiet. Like, your boss is probably on vacation quiet. If this is your first year in Kigali, you’re going to figure this out pretty soon. Although this year will be undoubtedly different with the election, a lot of work will still be put on hold. So it’s time to plan a vacation!

Although it used to be difficult to get from Kigali to international destinations – both due to costs and absurd layover schedules – times are a changing! RwandAir, Kenya Airways, and Ethiopian Airlines have fairly reasonable prices and schedules as of late, and even getting to Europe isn’t too difficult anymore. With that in mind, we have compiled a list of places for international weekend trips from Kigali that can be reached with either a direct flight, or a quick and painless transfer! A quick caveat – Kibuye, Gisenyi, Akagera, and Nyungwe, while amazing, are not the goal of this article. If you’re looking for Rwanda itineraries or tips, check out this article.

The six trips listed below are best suited to a long weekend, so shoot an email to your boss, grab the sunscreen, find a friend, and head to the airport or bus station!

 1. Nairobi

Price: Between $285 and $300 on Kenya Airways or RwandAir.
Where to stay: Ngong House or the Hilton
What to eat: Check out Seven or Furusato for seafood and sushi, About Thyme for an eclectic and upmarket experience, Nyama Mama for new wave African food, and the Alchemist for a cool food truck and bar scene.
What to do: Kiss a giraffe at the Giraffe Centre, watch baby elephants play at the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, visit Brown’s Cheese Farm, or go for a run in Karua Forest.

2. Dar es Salaam

Price: Between $280 and $300 on RwandAir, and between $230 and $280 on Kenya Airways (but with a layover in Nairobi).
Where to stay: Dar es Salaam Serena Hotel for a fancier stay, or the Lantana Hotel and Upepo Garden for more reasonable options.
What to eat: Check out Mediterraneo for good (though pricy) Italian food right on the water, Calabash in Mwenge for Tanzanian food (and live music Wednesday through Saturday), and Zhonghua Garden for amazing Chinese food and hand-pulled noodles.
What to do: If you’re in the mood to buy the most classic of Tanzanian souvenirs, check out Mwenge Woodcarvers Market (before heading to nearby Calabash for a quick beer). Visit Mbudya Island in the marine reserve, a lovely beach just a short distance from the city. Visit the fish market in Kivukoni before taking the ferry to Kigamboni for some drinks at a small resort along the water. In Dar for the weekend? Don’t forget to check out Nafasi Art Space for some great events.

3. Brussels

Price: Between $700 and $950 on Brussels Airlines, but if you’re willing to do a long layover, you can find flights for as low as $550 through Ethiopian Airlines or Turkish Airlines.
Where to stay: Airbnb for a cheaper option, or Chez Odette for a boutique hotel experience.
What to eat: Restaurant Vincent for a traditional meal, La Maree for excellent seafood, Friture Rene for the most classic of Belgian spots, and Maison Antoine for the best frites in the city.
What to do: It’s time to drink all the beer, sample all the chocolate, and taste all the waffles! Visit the Musee Magritte Museum before visiting the Delirium Cafe to try over 2,000 different kinds of beer. Walk along Rue Antoine Dansaert to shop for Belgian designers, rent a yellow Villo bike to journey around town, and head to the daily flea market at Place du Jeu de Balle.

4. Istanbul

Price: Between $700 and $900 on Turkish Airlines.
Where to stay: The Empress Zoe for a guesthouse located near a lot of tourist attractions, or Airbnb for a cheaper option.
What to eat: Check out Giritli, Karakoy Lokantasi, Asitane, and Ciya for some sit down Turkish meals, while also making sure to eat all the street food you can find! Fresh juice, Simit (the Turkish bagel), Durum (a vegetable or meat wrap), Kebab (meat!), and Borek (cheese wrapped in dough) can be found everywhere.
What to do: There is so much to do in Istanbul! Spend your days on the usual tourist path at Topkapi, the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, the Cistern, the Spice Market, and the Grand Bazaar. Also take some time to relax in a Turkish bath and check out the Istanbul Modern Museum.

5. Kampala

Price: Between $215 and $300 on Rwandair.
Where to stay: Le Petit Village Boutique Hotel as an upmarket option, or Bushpig Backpackers and Fat Cat Backpackers for cheaper options.
What to eat: Grab some sushi at Yujo, eat some classic Belgian cuisine at Le Chateau, check out The Bistro, and eat all the tacos (and drink all the margaritas!) at Que Pasa.
What to do: Drink and dance the night away at Bubbles upon arrival (the most classic of Kampala hang outs), visit the Gaddafi National Mosque, explore Uganda’s National Museum, take a quick overnight trip to Jinja for whitewater rafting, shop the day away at Owino Market, and snag a half day boat trip around Lake Victoria.

Oh and if you’re planning a trip to Kampala for the end of the year, a map is coming soon! Click on this link – http://eepurl.com/cS1z4P – to join the mailing list and we’ll keep you updated on the release date! Oh ya!

6. Addis Ababa

Price: Between $350 and $450 on Ethiopian Airlines.
Where to stay: Taitu Hotel, Wudasie Castle Hotel, Bluebirds International Hotel (good for business), or Mr. Martin’s Cozy Place (good budget option).
What to eat: Grab a morning coffee at Tamoca, lunch at Tikus Shiro, and dinner at the upmarket Kategna. Chane’s Restaurant provides a more unique twist on Ethiopian cuisine, and Bahir Zaf offers fresh, creative, and tasty food options.
What to do: Go on a Go Addis tour! Check out their different food and city tour options, and immerse yourself in this bustling city. Visit both the Shola and Merkato markets to stock up on spices, incense, jewelry, and fabric. Listen to Ethiopian Jazz at the Taitu or Ghion Hotel. Learn about Ethiopia at the National Museum and Ethnological Museum, before visiting St. George’s Cathedral. Find the iconic monuments surrounding the city, from the Lion of Judah to the Derg Monument. Finally, head up to Entoto Hill for some stunning views.

Plus you can pick up a map of Addis courtesy of Kirsty at the Go Kigali Boutique shop at the Marriott Hotel, the Ikirezi Bookstore or on Amazon UK or Amazon USA!

Alright, Kigali-ites! What did you think of our list? Any other locations you would like to see featured here? Planning any upcoming weekend trips? Let us know in the comments section!

Eastern Congo is an area of the world with no shortage of sad stories and it seems like an unlikely destination for tourism. But despite it’s violent history and current state of insecurity, some brave (or stupid) souls are braving the guerrillas to see the gorillas and, in my case, hoping that Mount Nyiragongo in Virunga National Park stays calm for a couple of days while we scramble up it.

Virunga National Park has recently been given a bit of well deserved attention due to the fantastic, Oscar-nominated documentary Virunga, putting the park on the radar of travellers seeking a bit of adventure. For those of us living in Rwanda, travel to the DRC isn’t a far-off fantasy and arranging a trip to the park is actually surprisingly simple thanks to their excellent Virunga NP website.

I’ve recently taken a trip up (and, thankfully, also back down) Mount Nyirangongo, home to Africa’s most active volcano and the world’s largest lava lake, and this article aims to give you a complete start to finish account of how to plan your own trip. Practical tips, advice, and all of that good stuff that doesn’t seem to yet exist in the world of DR Congo tourism.

Booking Your Mount Nyiragongo Hike

The Virunga National Park website used to be surprisingly wonderful and easy to use and now it’s a bit more confusing which is a bit disappointing to see. But still, it gives you all of the ‘how to book’ information you’ll need to have a good experience, and more importantly, they have a beautiful, fully functioning online booking platform which gives you confidence that your hard earned money isn’t being sent into an online Congolese abyss.

Go to the main page and click ‘Visit Virunga’ which will then take you down into all of the information about the park, including the packages that are possible to book. Have a read through this whole page as there’s a lot of good info there and then click on ‘Nyiragongo’ or visit this direct link for information on booking the actual hike. There’s a ‘Book Now’ button that doesn’t seem to be working currently, but I found the correct URL for booking in a roundabout way – https://bookings.visitvirunga.org/packages/nyiragongo.

Choose your permit and any extra options (for food or food and gear… both of which seemed like a decent value but we opted to bring out own) and then pick your date and pay. Done! It’s a very easy process and the park staff are quite responsive by email to any questions you might have about the trip. The website also has a section with a bunch of practical advice on what to expect which is a useful read, in addition to this article.

Getting a Visa

Five years ago when I wandered into Rwanda I took a trip to Goma on a whim getting a $30 visa at the border. Easy peasy! But oh how times have changed and shortly after that trip, I’d heard that visas for the DR Congo cost $250 and could only be applied for in your home country. A bit of a drastic change and kind of a killer for tourism but, fear not, because Virunga NP is looking out for us.

Virunga National Park Visa

Most tourists planning a trip into the park won’t be residents of Rwanda and won’t qualify for a regular DRC visa so the park has come up with a genius deal which offers park-specific visas good for the Goma area for people who book one of several attractions in Virunga National Park. Once you’ve booked your Mount Nyiragongo hike (or you can see other packages here including gorilla trekking), you qualify for a park visa. It’s all very easy and everything can be done on the website. Book and pay for your park visit first and then use that confirmation information to book your special Virunga DRC visa. The visas are valid for 14 days and the fees aren’t refundable.

CEPGL

Residents of Rwanda (anyone with a work or business visa) are in luck because we’re eligible for a visa called the ‘CEPGL‘ which grants access to Burundi and the DRC for the low, low price of $10. For all of the juicy information on how to get this wonderful little gem of a visa, check out my article called ‘Applying for your CEPGL for Burundi and the DRC‘ and all shall be revealed.

Regular Visa for the DRC

I have no freaking idea. I guess check with the DRC Embassy wherever you live? I’m pretty sure you have to apply from your home country and I’m pretty sure it’s super expensive. If you’re a tourist with plans to travel to various places around the DRC then you’ll have to get this legit visa since the park visa is only for the Goma area.

Visa Issues

One out of the three in our group had a problem with their visa and the reason was never quite made clear. I was given a contact number and made a semi-frantic call (it is the DR Congo border, after all) to him to see why my friend’s visa was seemingly missing in action. We gave him our order number (make sure to have this four digit booking code handy) and he said he’d call me back when he figured things out. Thirty minutes later he called back (I think he had to actually go into the office as it was Sunday) and said that there was a problem because my friend said her arrival date would be June 7th instead of July 7th. Given that we booked the trip on June 15th and it’s impossible to book for days that have already passed, I’m dubious about this explanation. But the point is to be vigilant about checking your visa once it’s been booked because things can go wrong and had we not gotten to the border a couple of hours before it closed, we’d have been out of luck. Someone made a mistake and I’m pretty sure it wasn’t my friend.

Transportation to Goma and Virunga National Park

Because this is a Kigali-related site, I’m going to give transportation instructions assuming you’re leaving from there. Plus it’s the main place to fly into if you want to visit Virunga NP. I can’t imagine too many people make the commute from Kinshasa.

Goma is just across the border from Gisenyi (Rubavu) which is about a 3 to 3.5 hour drive from Kigali. If you don’t have your own vehicle you can easily catch a bus from the Nyabugogo bus station. Buses cost around Rwf 3,000, and generally leave every half hour. If you’ve got a lot of bags you’ll probably want to stake your claim to good seats and stash your bags on a bus that’s not yet full which will probably mean waiting about 20 to 30 minutes for it to leave. No need to book tickets in advance.

Or if you’d rather be fancy (or have a lot of stuff like us un-fancy people) then you can hire a taxi for $80 to $100 including fuel. The quote I was getting from Kigali drivers was $100 but drivers in Gisenyi seemed happy to do the trip for $80. So we probably could have bargained harder in Kigali. Between four people it worked out to be worth it, especially considering the mountain of crap we would have had to take on the bus.

From Goma to the park entrance you have a few options. We opted just to go with the park transportation which, at $28 per person per way is pretty ridiculous, especially since we were four people. We just figured that booking through the park would eliminate any possibility of confusion so we just bit the bullet. If you opt for this, you’ll have to book your transport on their website. You’ll want the ‘Goma – Kibati’ and ‘Kibati – Goma’ options to cover a round trip. They’ll pick you up either at your Goma hotel or the DRC side of the border, just make sure to communicate where you’ll be.

I later asked at my hotel in Goma how much a trip to the start of the hike would cost and they told me $80 which, if you’re a few people, makes a lot more sense. Arranging a taxi for a set price might be tricky though unless you have a taxi contact in Goma or are staying at a hotel. A couple of brave souls took motos to the park entrance though I didn’t get the price for this. The roads aren’t horrible but they’re not great and you’ll pass plenty of giant trucks so you’ll be pretty dusty on arrival. But it’s an option!

The trip to the park entrance is a bit of an annoying one. First you stop at their office to show your printed booking form and collect a paper receipt. This took about 20 minutes for eight people. Then we headed off to the park entrance with a stop along the way outside a ranger’s house, apparently. Another 20 minutes for no reason that I could figure out. Then on we continued to the park which, without the stops, is about a 30 minute drive. At the hike entrance we waited around again for about 45 minutes to an hour. So if you’re arranging your own transport, try to figure out when the hike actually starts and give yourself enough time for the office stop. I don’t think we really needed to leave at 8:30am.

The Mount Nyiragongo Hike

The Mount Nyirangongo Volcano hike is something I’ll never forget. It’s also something I never want to do again. Holy crap it was cold up there and the trek was certainly a challenge on my unfit legs. But I’m very grateful to have had the opportunity to go on the hike and the fitness to just barely get me up and down. It was a tough slog and not recommended for people who never do any sports. Like the poor Burundian dude who had to be carried up the last third (and most difficult part) of the mountain. Not, as I found out later, due to altitude sickness, but due to not being the type of guy who never does anything active. It was pretty surprising given that he’s a young guy without a bit of fat on him so I guess let that be a warning to you! If you’re completely out of shape, do a bit of training in advance.

To give you another indication of the difficulty level, while I go to the gym fairly regularly, I seem to have spent more time in bars than in the gym during the weeks leading up to the hike. I probably should have been worried when walking 1 minute from the lake to the top of my hotel up a steep slope caused me to be winded. But on the hike, while I wasn’t blazing a trail and our pace overall was pretty slow, I managed to stick to the middle of the pack going up and going down. So being crazy in shape isn’t a requirement, either.

The first hour or so of the hike is pretty mild and not so steep but I felt like our pace was a bit quicker than I would have liked, so I found it to be tough. The first break was well-received and I managed to catch my breath pretty quickly. The middle part of the hike is where it gets a bit steep but it’s the loose volcanic rocks that make it tricky, especially on the descent. The hike is steep but the pace was slow which made it seem easier than the first part, at least for me.

The killer is the last hour of the hike where you can see the top but have to scramble up, figuring out your own path as you climbed. Because there really isn’t one set path to the top, everyone in our group kind of just did their own thing which meant that we could set our own pace. Seeing the huts so close but feeling like it’s taking so long is frustrating, but you’ll get there!

While I was winded and cursing myself and the volcano at various stages, I never once felt like I wouldn’t make it. It’s a challenge for sure but one that you’ll be proud of yourself for once you finish. Just don’t go into it expecting it to be a breeze because you’ll be miserable pretty quickly.

The Top

The top, the glorious top! I’ve never been so happy to see the crater of a volcano in all my life. The payoff isn’t immediately obvious since, during the daylight, the volcano’s fiery lava lake doesn’t shine so brightly. But even without seeing the lava clearly (yet)… you’re at the top of a freaking volcano! That’s pretty damned cool and it’s beautiful but we came to see fire and that’ll have to wait until the sun goes down at around 6:30 pm.

Once at the top we had a little look around, snapped some photos, were scolded for getting too close to the edge, and then we retreated to our tent area to ‘set up camp’, get warm, and get dinner started. We ended up hanging around down there for awhile after the sun went down before heading up to see the fiery wonderfulness. It’s truly an amazing sight and totally worth the difficult trek and frigid weather.

The Summit Shelters

Accommodation at the top of Mount Nyiragongo is inside smallish triangular tents that are pitched inside rough a-frame buildings, some with doors, most without. The accommodation is very basic and has seen better days, but you’ll be provided with a decent mattress and pillow (which I wasn’t expecting at all) and it does the trick. The tents aren’t huge and you’ll be in close quarters with your tent buddy, especially since some of them seem to be built on a slight angle which means you’ll roll into them (which is great for keeping warm!) This won’t matter unless you’re a single traveller since you might find yourself bunking with a stranger, possibly of the opposite sex. Something to keep in mind in case spooning with strangers isn’t really your thing.

There are supposed to be eight cabins, each for two people, but I only noticed where six of them were. Three are up closer to the crater’s rim and three are down below. The higher level accommodation allows you to pop out of your tent for a look in the crater at a moment’s notice while the lower cabins mean an annoying and precarious trek up to the top, so you might be less likely to make multiple visits. I’m told the higher cabins are colder due to wind though and they’re also farther away from the death-defying journey to the bathroom so each location comes with a few pros and cons.

The Aftermath

There’s a wonderful feeling that comes when you take on Africa’s most active volcano and win. A feeling of being able to accomplish anything and a thirst for more adventure to come. But that feeling fades fast, my friends, and the volcano shall exact her revenge when it’s all said and done. If you’re anything like me, you’ll spend the next few days walking up and down stairs and hills like a 90-year-old with two prosthetic legs. It’s not an unmanageable pain, but you might want to consider your activities for few days after your hike. Basketball and triathlons are probably a bad idea. Reclining in hammocks and napping both come more highly recommended, however.

Packing List

I’ve done exactly one overnight hike ever in my life – Mount Nyiragongo. I’m no expert on the matter of what to bring up to the top of a fiery volcano on a camping trip but, luckily, I had plenty of friends do the hike before me who were happy to bestow me with tips and advice. Taking their advice on board, I think we were able to get a good idea of what to take with us and, as the generous little person that I am, I’m going to pass that knowledge onto you.

Clothes & Gear

• rain jacket
• rain pants
• running shoes
• heavy fleece
• light sweater
• thin stretchy pants
• long underwear
• 4 pairs of socks
• heavy sleeping bag
• air mattress (they provide a mattress so I didn’t need this)

This list doesn’t include what I wore up the hill which was a pair of hiking shoes, thin stretchy pants that could be rolled up above me knees (which looked totally awesome, as you can imagine), and a sleeveless top. I kept the rain gear and the light fleece in my small backpack that I carried myself along with a water bottle, camera, iPhone, passport, and some snacks.

I ended up changing into regular gym style running shoes when I got to the top and decided to give those a try on the way down and they were totally fine. Not much ankle support which made the rolling loose volcanic rocks on Mount Nyiragongo a challenge, but I feel like the hiking shoes would have hurt the backs of my ankles. Plenty of people did the hike in sneakers, some people wearing jeans and a dress shirt, and others were fully kitted out in all the gear. Except for people being cold, nobody complained about the gear they hiked up in, as far as I could tell.

Food & Drink (for 4 people)

• 4.5 litres of water each (I only ended up drinking about 2.5 litres of that and the rest was used for cooking and rinsing dishes)
• 4 tins of Campbells chunky soup
• 2 chocolate bars
• 6 apples
• 6 bananas
• 4 boiled eggs
• 2 packs of Hobnobs
• 2 bags of weird fiber biscuits
• instant coffee
• packet of hot chocolate
• powdered milk
• whiskey & coke

We were so excited about our chunky soup that we sort of forgot to get any lunch or breakfast. Thankfully we tided ourselves over nicely on biscuits, fruit, and boiled eggs that we thieved from our hotel’s breakfast buffet. Since we spent the weekend between Gisenyi and Goma, we didn’t really have an opportunity to prepare food for ourselves. We were really thankful of that hot meal at the top and I’d say the extra prep is worth it. Some friends even went so far as to prepare chili in Kigali, freeze it, and then heat it up at the top of the volcano. And others still were quite happy with biscuits and peanut butter and jam sandwiches.

Everything Else

• iPhone (would you believe there was reception up at the top though I brought it for the extra camera)
• camera
• iPod (which I didn’t use since we had a great group and the chitter chatter was entertaining)
• 4 plastic bowls
• 4 plastic cups
• a metal cooking pot
• bag for garbage
• toilet paper
• charcoal (available to buy at the bottom, before the hike)
• matches
• walking stick (bought it at the bottom)
• plastic bags to keep your stuff dry if it rains

What We Missed

We were actually pretty ok and lucky that we were tenting next to a master fire starter but I would have added a small bottle with a bit of kerosine in it to get the coals going. Plus I probably would have brought a few more chocolate bars because, when is that ever a bad idea? Otherwise I’d say we were pretty well-prepared and not in need of anything, really.

But the reason we were so prepared was because of oodles of great advice from friends who had conquered the volcano before us. I hope that this ridiculously long article has brought together all of the info and added more and that it helps you plan a wonderful trip to a truly amazing place.

Tips and Advice for the Hike

Having successfully climbed Mount Nyiragongo without any major mishaps or stories of woe, I feel like I’ve accomplished something! But had I not been given some great advice from friends, things might have turned out differently. Hopefully these tips will come in as handy for you as they did for me!

• The best piece of advice I got about this trip was “When the man at the bottom asks you if you want a walking stick, you say ‘yes’.” I can’t image how beat up I would have been without that glorious little $5 piece of carved stick. I’m still not clear whether that price was to buy it or to rent it but it’s money well spent and it saved me from painful, rocky falls on several occasions.
• Pack twice as many warm clothes and fuzzy socks as you think you’ll need and don’t forget gloves and a hat that covers your ears.
• Make sure to hire a porter because carrying a bulky bag up a volcano is sure to suck badly.
• Don’t be a dick to your porter and make sure you give the guy a decent bag to carry your stuff in. I’m sure they’re completely willing and totally able to carry up a rolling suitcase, but be nice and try to track down a decent backpack for your hike if you don’t already own one.
• You won’t need to cart up your own tent, pillow, or mattress because they’re provided but everything else is your responsibility right down to toilet paper and bags for your garbage so don’t forget these little things.
• We decided that a hot meal at the top would be a well deserved reward so we bought a few tins of chunky soup and I honestly think the extra hassle was totally worth it.
• If you’re planning on making a fire and hanging around outside of your tent a bit after your time up next to the crater, I’d recommend grabbing one of first two tents on the bottom level. There are three in a row and the first two tents have canvas in between them, benches, and a raised fire pit which makes a good place to hang out.
• We also opted to bring instant coffee (which brought us instant joy) which also meant bringing a bit of extra water and cups.
• Whiskey is your friend.
• If you’ve been sweating a lot, make sure to change out of your base layers at the small hut before the final push to the top. This is where things start to get really cold and you won’t want to strip off at the top, trust me.
• This hike would suck in the rain so make sure to say some quick prayers to the volcano gods the day before for good weather.
• The DRC border closes at 6pm so get there with plenty of time to deal with any visa issues. We would have been screwed had we not given ourselves two hours.
• Goma is a cool city so don’t rush away! Spend a couple of nights in town. We stayed at Caritas Guesthouse (guesthousecaritas@yahoo.fr) which was pretty good. Just stay away from their spaghetti carbonara, otherwise the rest of the food is good.

That’s it! That’s all! Everything that you need to know to plan your very own hike up Mount Nyiragongo in the DRC. It’s a pretty epic trip and I’m so happy to have finally made the effort to do it. It’s really easy to organise, especially from Kigali, so take all of this sage advice from an experienced volcano-conqueror (that’s me!) and go!

The Mount Gahinga Lodge, located just over the border in Mgahinga, Uganda, is a base point for several volcano treks along the DRC, Uganda, Rwanda border. Rumor has it there used to be gorillas here, but they have since all moved over to the Rwanda side of the tracks where the road system is better and the gorilla girls are less snobby.

But this beautiful area is certainly not lacking for the loss of them- truly what they left behind is an absolute treasure of mountain wilderness that I hope the more adventurous among you will choose to experience! And the lodge itself, with 7 private bungalows connected to the main house by lava stone pathways, is a perfect combination of rustic and luxury.

Partly due to a common sense approach to the remote location as well as the company’s commitment to preserving the environment, these guys are pretty serious about the eco-lodgeness of their business. But I was so thoroughly impressed with the whole operation- from the precise timing of the wake-up calls (with tea and a hot bucket shower please!), the incredibly well thought through design of the rooms, the cozy main house with a central full-circle fire place, and hot water bottles placed in your bed while you eat dinner, I really don’t think “eco” has never been done so well.

Each room is connected to a private bathroom by an enclosed pathway (which serves the double function of 1. keeping the warmth in and 2. preserving your dignity when you forget your robe as you make a blind fumble to the bathroom at 2a.m.) Each room is also equipped with a private patio, a bed so comfortable that I nearly abandoned all thoughts of hiking come Saturday morning, and some basic practicalities (torch, candle, towels, and plenty of seating). Things you won’t find in the room include: internet, electrical outlets, or a telephone for ringing reception (though there was a big hand bell.. I am afraid the desire to ring it wildly never did hit me, though if it strikes you, I would not be surprised to find it promptly summons one of the lodge’s attentive staff).

Prices

Like many of the lodges in Rwanda, prices are “all-inclusive.” This includes 3 meals a day, tea, coffee, and a daily massage (!). It does not include alcoholic drinks or tips you may feel compelled to give the staff, who were excellent. My stay was $250 for the weekend including the full day hike up Mt. Sabyinyo.

Getting There

I imagine there are several ways you can make your way here- probably the easiest being to book a tour through Volcanoes Safaris (main office at the Mille Collines Hotel in Kigali)- but my group decided to drive ourselves. The road system in Rwanda verges on excellent, so assuming you are able to get your hands on a 4×4 and lots of motion sickness pills, I say jump ON that winding road! (Things to note: the border crossing closes at 7pm, so leave Kigali by 2pm at the latest and seriously guys. You DO need a 4×4 as the last 10 km (about an hour) or so of the journey is some ROUGH riding.)

Lake Bunyonyi is located just over the border in Uganda and makes a really great place to escape to for a few days or longer. The easiest part for Kigali residents to visit is near Kabale, a small city just 30 minutes from the Katuna border 1.5 hours north of Kigali. The lake is large and there are several parts to explore but we’ll just focus on the Kabale-area section because that’s the part I’ve been to.

Transportation

I changed my mind at the last minute and decided to head to Lake Bunyonyi instead of Kampala. I already had a ticket to Kampala on Jaguar’s VIP coach (leaves at 9am each day, nicer and fewer seats than the regular buses) for Rwf 8,000 so I just got off early at Kabale. But this is a massive waste of money since you’ll only be travelling for about 3 hours instead of the 9 hour trip all the way to Kampala. So don’t be dumb like me and just get a ticket to Kabale.

Kabale is the first major town after entering Uganda and buses going to Kampala will pass all pass through. You can buy a ticket from Kigali to Kabale with several companies. Yes, I’m being vague because I didn’t research which ones and don’t know the exact price. But head down to the Nyabagogo bus station and ask around and you shall receive the information. It takes an hour and a half to get to the border, another 45 minutes to an hour for everyone to pass through immigration and then Kabale is another 25 minutes past the border.

Once you get to Kabale you’ll find a bunch of boda-boda (mototaxis – also Swahili for ‘death trap’) drivers waiting outside the door to the bus. They’ll all assume you’re going to Lake Bunyonyi and start peppering you with their best price. Boda-bodas are terrifying at the best of times (no helmets and the way the seat is makes you always feel like you’re about to do a backflip off the end) and the road to Lake Bunyonyi is no exception. It’s a dirt road and it can get pretty slick if it’s rained. There are potholes and the steep hills make it a treacherous ride that’s a bit hard on your back and legs. I also nearly got clotheslined by a small child who was playing with a giant tree branch… my driver and I had to duck as she lost control of the branch and it fell down towards our bike. Fun.

A boda-boda to the Lake Bunyonyi Overland Camp will cost Ush 5,000 (although they’ll ask for 10,000 at first). Finding a car is a better idea if it has just rained or if you’re a group of people and they can be hired for Ush 10,000. Just ask around and you’ll find someone willing to take you. It takes about 20 minutes to get to the Overland Camp so, all up, the trip should take about 3 hours. If you’re staying out on one of the islands you’ll have to add a canoe or motorboat into the equation. Canoes to many of the islands take about 40 to 50 minutes and motorboats about 10 to 15.

Getting back to Kigali is a bit more complicated as you won’t have a bus ticket. I ended up paying Ush 4,000 for some dude with a car and a bunch of passengers to drive me to the Rwandan border. Once I got there I wandered across, cleared customs and continued up the road, walking aimlessly hoping someone would take pity on my and drive me back to Kigali. Eventually a minibus came along and I got a lift back to Kigali for Rwf 1,800-ish. It took about 3 hours though.

Accommodation

There are a bunch of accommodation options both around the edge of Lake Bunyoni and on the many islands in the lake. I was thoroughly confused by my choices at first because I wasn’t really sure where anything was. Take a look at my map below to get an idea. A friend of mine stayed on one of the islands but said it was pretty quiet so if you’re looking for some party time, a quiet island might not be a good choice.

Birdnest

Single Room: US$110
Double Room: US$120

This is the place to come if you want to be pampered. It’s probably where the luxury safari groups stay. The rooms are really nice and well laid out, they have a very stylish-looking pool, and the staff are nice. While the places nearby have gone for a rustic feel, this place is upmarket and pretty swish but they do it without feeling sterile. Their patio has a great view and they’ve got a pretty badass fire pit which looks like a pretty amazing place to hang out. Room prices include breakfast.

Bushara Island Camp

Single Safari Tent: US$25
Double Safari Tent: US$30
Cottages: US$25-50 (depending on size and number of people)

This place is located a 50 minute (30 minute if you help paddle), Ush 3,000 canoe ride from the market (located down a road near Crater Bay Cottages). Actually, if you let them know you’re coming, the boat ride there is free. The island is beautiful with a couple of of swimming spots, a nice camping area, and several safari tents and cottages. I didn’t make a booking and got stuck in a dorm room which I think is actually reserved for staff or for large groups. Not the nicest but I guess it teaches me to book ahead! The dorm bed costs $15 and isn’t even on their price list. The showers don’t have doors so, if this is a luxury you like, I suggest booking a tent or cottage. The restaurant is a nice place to hang out with a fireplace and good food. The only place with power is an office down a path from the restaurant so if you need to keep things charged, this might not be the best place to stay. They run a bunch of interesting looking tours to keep you busy.

Bunyoni Overland Resort

Pitch Your Own Tent: US$8
Single Tent: US$20
Double Tent: US$25
Single Cottage: US$30
Double Cottage: US$40

This is where many of the major overland companies stop (Exodus, Kumuka, Dragoman etc) so you could find yourself sharing this accommodation with some rowdy youngsters on their big African adventure… depending on the tour company. This could also make for a lively atmosphere if that’s what you’re after. The accommodation is far enough away from the bar area that hopefully rowdy groups won’t be an issue. The setting is really beautiful with each of the tents having their own balcony facing the lake with a small table and two chairs to chill out in. They’ve also got a camping area and cottages. The toilets and showers are clean and the hot water was magically working even when the power was out. You can hire canoes here for $5 per day.

Crater Bay Cottages

Pitch Your Own Tent: US$8
Mobile Tent with Bedding: US$10
Double Cottage: US$43 (includes breakfast)

A nice, welcoming reception guy showed me around but he only showed me the cottages and said that the other rooms weren’t as nice. The cottages are pretty cute. The round rooms with grass roofs are a lot more spacious than they would seem when you look at them from the outside. The bar area is small but has comfy looking chairs. There are lots of other places around the property to hang out including a grassy area and a swimming dock. You can rent a canoe here for $6 a day.

Kalebas Camp

Pitch Your Own Tent: Ush 10,000
Single Safari Tent: Ush 30,000
Twin Safari Tent: Ush 40,000
Single Room: Ush 40,000
Double Room: Ush 50,000

The rooms are nicer at Crater Bay Cottages and the tents at Kalebas Camp are dome-style which makes them a lot less spacious than those found at Bunyoni Overland Restort. But the guests I met there vouched for the food and friendliness of the place. Their sitting areas are among the nicest with a fireplace up top, a restaurant with a view, and a nice area down by the water. There’s also a lot of grass to lay on or to pitch your tent. It has a nice, laid back vibe that I really liked.

Activities

The main thing to do at Lake Bunyoni is to enjoy the lake! This means swimming (there’s no bilharzia here), canoeing and general lounging around in the sun. All of the places to stay I’ve listed are well-equipped with plenty of grassy areas to veg on (yes, it’s Uganda and you can walk on the grass!) and a bunch of them also have nice patios and floating swimming decks.

If you’d rather explore the lake by boat then you’ve got the choice of hiring a motorboat or paddling around (or in circles, depending on your canoeing prowess) in a dugout canoe. Your accommodation will be able to arrange a boat for you, or you can head down to the local market area (just down the road from Crater Bay Cottages) and find a boat yourself.

Unless you want to zip around to a bunch of the islands, I’d suggest hiring a canoe for the day and exploring at a slow pace. The lake is beautiful and calm and the canoes are sturdy and fun to paddle. The islands are close enough to the shore that visiting a few of them in the day is a possibility. If you’re staying on the shore, try to get out to at least one of the islands for a look around.

You can also do multi-day canoe treks with Edirisa Travels which look pretty cool.